Finally, the nozzle is lowered back to the previous Z height, and printing continues as usual. The print head then moves up a small amount-typically the height of one layer and goes to the next point. First, the printer retracts the filament back into the nozzle. When you turn this setting on, the nozzle will “hop” a certain distance upwards before it travels over the printed part(s) on the build plate. Z-Hop is a slicer setting that lifts the print head up by a few millimeters as the printer performs a retraction move. Read on and Z-Hop your way to better 3D prints! By the end, you should know everything there is to know about this topic and be able to help yourself, and others fix their Z-Hop problems. The goal of the piece is to help you understand the Z-hop parameter in detail and walk you through its various settings. So, in this article, we’ll try to shed some light on this feature and help you improve the quality of your prints. It might seem a minor setting, but often if you’re having stringing or Z-banding issues, the Z-Hop settings are likely to be one of the culprits. A well-tuned Z-hop setting makes it less likely that the printer’s nozzle will knock over or scratch your prints. Z-Hop is one of those important but often ignored slicing aspects that play a big role in how well your 3D-printed parts turn out. With a Z-hop height of 0.2 mm, you can get smoother 3D prints and reduce print failure. By lifting the nozzle during retractions, Z-Hop helps to reduce the chances of your prints getting knocked over from the bed and scarring on your prints.
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